Here is the way we used to create our beds (see also the videos to the left where Charles Dowding shows how to make no-dig beds and Richard Perkins talks about the "no-dig" equipment).

• Find a spot in the garden that gets plenty of sun and preferably is protected from the wind

• Our beds are 75 cm wide and 10 m long, with about 40-45 cm between the beds. We recommend a 75 cm width as it is easy to

  access the plants. In addition, all the no-dig equipment is adapted to this width. But the length is optional. Just make sure all your

  beds are the same size so you can use the same ground covers, insect nets, etc.

• You can put the bedding material directly on the lawn if you do not have large amounts of perennial weeds such as

  couch grass. In that case, it is probably best to use a tiller before you start (this is the only time you can use a tiller !!). If you are

  not pressed for time, you can cover the entire area with plastic for a year either before or after constructing your beds. See the     

  instructions in the weed management document that is found under the tab "Gardening in no-dig beds". We had a whole field of

  couch grass and regret that we did not take the recommended measures. Much of the first year was spent on unnecessary

  weeding (the second year there was barely a single weed left !!)

• We built simple removable wooden frames to help us shape the beds (see image to the left). This is absolutely not necessary - especially if you do not have many beds, it is perfectly fine without frames.

• It is important that you put a proper layer of corrugated cardboard or newspaper all over the area (both beds and paths). This is to help kill the weeds under the beds. Make sure the layers overlap. We bought corrugated cardboard rolls that are incredibly easy to just roll over the area. They come in different widths, but you can use flattened old cartons (without tape / pins) or thick layers of newspaper. A little more fiddly but cheaper.

• Place a 10-15 cm layer of compost on the area where the beds should be. Note that it must be 100% compost - not plant soil etc. Do not skimp on the compost - we strongly recommend a layer of 15 cm. The compost must be well-composted (at least 6 months) cow manure and / or horse manure, or your own garden manure/green manure. Watch out if you use horse manure - it should not contain too many wood shavings and it may contain the toxic substance aminopyralide that stays in the soil for a long time and can destroy your vegetables. We bought organic cow manure in sacks. Expect somewhat more than 1 sack (50 litres) per meter if it is a 75 cm bed. Compost will be one of your biggest costs in the beginning but you do not have to keep adding expensive soil improvements and nutritional products later in the season. Please note that we do not recommend using straw as a mulch in damp climates as it attracts slugs, which can do considerable damage to your plants. 

• We rake in about 0.5 kg of volcanic rock dust per meter of bed. Rock dust has the following advantages: Larger and healthier vegetables with higher nutritional value and better taste, Longer storage capacity for your harvest, Increased resistance to diseases, Improved drying resistance. Also about 0.2 kg crushed oyster shell per meter. Oyster shell balances the soil's pH, improves nitrate uptake, facilitates enzyme formation and strengthens vegetables' cell walls. Especially good for cabbage plants, spinach etc.

• Don't forget to put organic material on the paths and on the perimeter of your beds to prevent weeds even there. It is in the space between the beds and the paths that the weeds can grow the most. We used wood chips. Beautiful, nice to walk on, practical (doesn't get messy when it rains and decays slowly. If you can't get hold of wood chips, it can work with bark chips, leaves, etc. (however, it decays faster).