In Sweden, where the growing season is short, we have chosen to sow most seeds indoors. The advantage is that when it is time to plant outside, you have gained quite a lot of time and the small plants have been able to grow strong and viable. The only seeds we sow directly in the soil are carrots, parsnip, peas, some beans, radishes and lettuce. You can expect about 80% of your seed to be viable plants. Therefore, you should buy 20% more seeds than you need. With vegetables like spinach, which may have slightly worse germination, I sow two seeds per cell and then pick out the weakest seedling.

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Seed times are calculated from the last frost day. In Central Sweden this is about 15 May (end of April for London). If you only have one or two beds, you can do this manually. But for a larger crop (we have 24 beds), a spreadsheet program (eg Excel) facilitates this work enormously. It is important to have a detailed plan ready before the planting season starts in earnest, as you have very little time to think. You can download this Excel file where you can plan your sowing times. Under the "How to grow" tab you can read how to use the spreadsheet program. If your last frost-free day is May 15, it's time for so many of the greenhouse plants (tomato, eggplant, paprika) as early as mid-March and onion seeds at the end of March. Early vegetables such as cabbage rabbit, spinach, broccoli, cabbage etc. can be sown in April.

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You need seeding trays. There is a wealth of different types and sizes. I also use Quickpot  for larger quantities like spinach, beetroot, cabbage rabbit, pak choi. Most in size 64 but also 144. Also Root Trainers for eg Greenhouse vegetables, cabbage, broccoli, cucumber, zucchini, corn, pumpkin, farm beans. They create well-developed root systems and allow for gentle handling of the plants thanks to the plug cells being opened up like a book. I don't like coconut pots.

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Key to success is plant lighting. Without this, the plants will grow tall as they search for light and become weak and vulnerable. You can buy simple devices in nurseries. I use "Grow Light Garden", which works very well. You need a timer that turns the lighting on for 16 hours per day.

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You need potting soil, preferably organic. I put a layer of vermiculite on top of my seeds instead of soil. It has good moisture retaining ability and promotes healthy growth.

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The young plants are very sensitive to dehydration and must be watered daily. I have tried irrigation mats, but think the soil is too moist and light mold is formed. Therefore, I only use them if I have to travel away for a while. Often, the seed can be left at normal room temperature until the seeds cave, and then lower the temperature. However, this does not always apply, but you have to adjust to what you are wounding. In order for the plants not to become too small, the temperature should be lower than normal room temperature. Usually 10-18ºC. But we have had significantly higher temperatures without major problems. The plants that stay in the tray for a long time (eg onion, cabbage root) feel good about getting some extra nutrition every now and then. I use a hydrolized fish fertilizer or algae concentrate 

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A few days before planting outdoors, the plants should be hardened off. You do this by putting the plants out for a few hours when the weather is calm and calm. However, you should not put them in direct sunlight at the beginning. In time you can increase over time. Detailed instructions for each vegetable can be found here.

 

It is important that you do not allow the young plants to stay in the tray for longer than the specified time. Potting soil does not have as much nutrition and your young plants will not develop as they should if left in the tray for too long.

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ps Don't forget to use plant markers to identify each crop! I write names, dates for sowing and dates for outdoor planting.