No-Dig Urban Gardening

Disadvantages of traditional gardening methods 

In traditional gardening where you dig and till the soil, you do the following:

• The earth is stimulated to repair the damage that has been done. This results in increased weed growth (see the

  document on weeds).

• You destroy vital microbes and fungal mycelium whose function is to mobilize nutrients in the soil and increase plant '

   ability to absorb nutrients.

• Aerobic pathogens that have been lying dormant in the anaerobic environment beneath the soil surface are raised and

   thus contribute to several plant diseases.

• The carbon present in the earth is exposed to oxygen in the air and carbon dioxide is formed and released into the

  atmosphere.

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One of our gurus in no-dig is a lovely Englishman named Charles Dowding. He describes no-dig as follows:

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There are three key facets of the no dig method:

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Soil is undisturbed so its organisms can work and multiply.

Most soil already has structure for roots to grow and nutrients to feed plants, and it is full of growth-enabling organisms. Billions of fungal threads, nematodes and earthworms – to name but a few – are being helpful right under our feet. We need to help them to help us. You have already started no dig without knowing! Since the last time you dug, tilled or forked your soil, it has been healing itself, with networks of fungi and the recreation of a stable structure. With no dig you simply and literally build on that. 

 

Organisms are fed with organic matter on the surface, as in nature but faster.

Allow soil to work its magic. Nutrients become available when needed by plants. Roots ask fungi for food and moisture, and fungi work best when undisturbed, which is why you see stronger growth in no dig soil. Focus on feeding the soil rather than the plant.

 

Plant feeding is about biology (such as fungi) more than chemistry (nutrients/minerals).

No dig increases the ability of plants to find food. Compost mulches serve as a rapid source of food for soil organisms and enhance their activity, thus improving soil structure. In damp climates, compost is best for mulching as it is no suitable habitat for slugs. 

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Why is no dig beneficial?

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In three words: speed, ease and productivity. For example, you can plant into a new bed created on weeds, on the same day; see the video below. Note that beds with new compost often want treading down to firm the compost.

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Problems diminish and gardening becomes easier, in particular because weeds grow less, since their healing properties are not needed by healthy soil. It is worth noting:

• Soil is lively, structured and does not stick to your boots.

• You can walk on your beds, thanks to the firm but open structure of soil.

• No dig means no compacted layers caused by damage from cultivations, and no compaction means no fermentation due to anaerobic conditions. No fermentation means that no alcohol is produced, and no alcohol means fewer slugs.

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With no dig, you can also grow more from less, keeping paths narrow and avoiding wooden sides where possible. 

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How can gardeners adopt the method organically without risk of invasive weeds?

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In a word, mulch ie covering weeds to deprive them of light. Eventually they die completely. However only in the first year do you need to use light-excluding mulches such as cardboard and polythene, to kill perennial weeds. I have many times completely and easily eradicated couch grass (Elymus repens) within a year.

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